Morellino di Scansano “Anteo,” Rocca Dei Venti, 2004 $6.99/bottle /sale - Everyone knows Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany’s most famous red wines. Most wine lovers are also familiar with the “SuperTuscans” and even Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. But Morellino di Scansano is obscure. It is made in the hilly environs of the coastal village of Scansano in the Maremma. Morellino is the local name for Sangiovese. It may also be related to Morello (brown), the color of Maremmano horses. The wine, which was granted DOC status in 1978 and upgraded to DOCG status with the 2007 vintage, is made from at least 85% Sangiovese. The remainder can comprise any non-aromatic black grape varietal included in a list made and periodically updated by the Regione Toscana local authorities. Wines from this region were historically excellent, but lacking noble lords found in other towns such as Montalcino, the people from Scansano never developed precise and strict rules for making their wine. The DOC does not require wood aging for Morellino, so versions range from unoaked, simple fruit bombs to more structured, wood-tamed beauties. Ironically one of the very best Morellino di Scansano (Castello Romitorio) is actually produced by a winery that is based in the town of Montalcino.